A broken screw extractor stuck in a hole is widely considered one of the worst tool problems you can face. The extractor — particularly a straight-flute “easy out” — is typically made from harder steel than the surrounding material, which means standard drill bits won’t cut through it. Here’s the professional approach to resolving this genuinely difficult situation.
Understanding why an extractor breaks helps prevent it happening again. The most common cause: applying torque without sufficient downward pressure, causing the extractor to slip rather than bite and building up rotational stress in the bit until it snaps. Other causes: using an undersized extractor for the fastener, using a soft extractor on a hard or corroded fastener, and — most commonly — using a cheap extractor that simply lacks the hardness to handle the job.
EDM — also called spark erosion — can remove hardened tool steel from a hole without affecting the surrounding material. Most machine shops offer EDM services. This is the professional standard solution when the broken extractor is in a high-value component — an engine block, a precision fixture, equipment housing — where drilling out or destroying the surrounding material is not acceptable. It’s expensive ($100–$500+ depending on the job) but reliable.
Solid carbide or diamond-tipped drill bits can cut through hardened extractor steel. Use a drill press rather than a hand drill for the stability required. Work very slowly with cutting fluid, using the smallest practical bit size to avoid expanding the hole more than necessary. This is the most accessible option for tradespeople who don’t have access to EDM.
If the component value doesn’t justify the EDM expense and you have access to a drill press, drill through the broken extractor incrementally with carbide bits, then re-tap the threads to the next size up. This destroys both the extractor and the original threads but produces a usable hole. Often the most practical solution on non-critical components.
If the broken extractor extends even slightly above the surface, an experienced welder can sometimes weld a nut to the top of the broken extractor stub, then remove both with a wrench. Requires precision and the right application — not feasible if the extractor is flush with or below the surface, and requires heat tolerance in the surrounding material.
The single most important prevention: use a quality extractor. Cheap extractors from multi-piece kits use soft steel that’s brittle under torsional stress. Professional-grade extractors made from hardened steel or titanium alloy (58+ HRC) have significantly higher torsional strength and failure resistance. They also work on the first attempt more often, which means less applied torque before success — further reducing break risk.
Always apply firm, consistent downward pressure while turning. Keep the drill at low RPM with high torque. And if you feel the extractor slipping rather than gripping, stop immediately and reassess — a slipping extractor is building up stress toward a break.